Leg 1 – Falmouth to Bayona (Crossing Biscay) - 11 to 15 June 2017

 

Falmouth - Port Pendennis Marina

Due to an extremely unusual set of low-pressure systems forming in the Atlantic, we opted to stay in Falmouth until a suitable weather window appeared to make the crossing to Bayona. We made the most of the delay and our time in Falmouth by visiting local attractions and of course sampling the traditional pubs and restaurants that surround the harbour. We finally set sail from Port Pendennis Marina with our good friends Mike and Jennie on board early on Sunday morning (11^th June) after what proved to be the longest delay to the start in the Rally's history.

We slipped our lines and headed out into the English Channel for the start of our Biscay crossing. The larger, faster boats were expected to complete the 550nm crossing to northwest Spain by Wednesday night but we hoped to arrive some time on Thursday. Initially we were heading into the wind and an uncomfortable first day was anticipated. However, later in the passage, the wind veered behind us (though that was not necessarily a comfortable point of sail either!) We reached the shipping lanes by late afternoon and crossed into French waters at 17:30, heading for a passage inshore of the TSS off Ushant. By 03:00 the next day (Monday 12^th) we had cleared the TSS and set our course across Biscay to northwest Spain.

Our watch system was based around doubling up and sharing the watches equally. We therefore had 4-hour watches during the day (6 am to 6 pm) and 3-hour watches at night (6 pm to 6 am). As a result he time on watch rotated and everyone was allowed to rest for at east 6 hours each night. We quickly got into the routine and it worked very well.

Sunset in Biscay

Although the weather forecast was benign, we didn’t know what to expect over the course of the next 4 or 5 days, as the Bay of Biscay is well known for stormy weather and unanticipated weather changes. However, in the event, the forecast proved accurate and the swell caused more problems for us than the wind (due to the lack of it) with the boat constantly rolling from side to side, spilling what little wind we did find. So we spent a good deal of time motorsailing! We did get some good sailing weather in patches and we were kept on our toes changing sail settings and trying to make the best of the wind we encountered. During the passage dolphins and pilot whales were often with us, including one night when they stayed with us all the way through until daylight, whistling and dancing as we tried to catch some sleep.

As the days passed we saw less of the other rally boats and indeed very few other vessels. We were surprised very early on the morning of Wednesday 14^th to see an AIS signal for a huge 285 foot long sailing vessel. We diverted our course slightly to investigate and it turned out to be the Shabab Oman II, a 3-mast full-rig sailing ship in training service with the Royal Navy of Oman. Unfortunately she was also suffering from the lack of wind so her sails were furled but nevertheless she was an impressive sight!

Shabab Oman II

Just before daylight on Thursday 15^th we were approaching Cape Finisterre and we knew we would shortly be starting the final stretch. However, we first had to negotiate a mass of fishing boats and other vessels sailing around La Coruna and the Cape to start their day. Tired tired eyes strained to identify them and determine the courses they were taking. In addition, less and less boats seemed to have AIS as we headed south so we had to be extra vigilant. More than once we held out breath and hoped that the skippers knew (or more properly would act in accordance with) the International Collision Regulations. Thankfully, they did!

Lots of AIS Targets!!

 

The wind strengthened and the swell increased dramatically on the final day of our passage and we spent an excellent afternoon surfing the swell towards Bayona, with the impact only lessening when we entered the final bay where the Monte Real Yacht Club marina is located. We finally arrived 566 miles later, exhausted but exhilarated at around 16:30 on Thursday 15^th just as we had hoped. The whole fleet was eventually moored stern-to on one pontoon and the boats were dressed with signal flags en masse.

 

 

The following evening Friday the ARC Portugal fleet gathered at Monte Real Club De Yates where we enjoyed sangria and snacks on their terrace that overlooks the marina. As the sun started to set we walked into town to El Tunel restaurant where we had a typical Spanish dinner of local tapas, fish and meat. We all then then headed back to the marina for a pontoon party.

 On Saturday morning we had an all day tour of Santiago de Compostela. The fleet split into two groups and local guides Patricia and Maria guided us around the historic Cathederal de Santiago, Museums, and plazas. After the tour, we had the chance to roam around the streets and sample the delights of the many tapas bars.

Santiago de Compostela

On Sunday 18 June we enjoyed the sunny weather Baiona had to offer and had a free day to explore the town. In the evening the prize giving ceremony took place on the lawn in front of the Monte Real Club de Yates. After the prizes and tapas starters, we made their way into the dining room where a lovely meal of local fish or meat was waiting for us.