Leg 1 – Falmouth to Bayona (Crossing Biscay) - 11 to 15 June 2017

 

Falmouth - Port Pendennis Marina

Due to an extremely unusual set of low-pressure systems forming in the Atlantic, we opted to stay in Falmouth until a suitable weather window appeared to make the crossing to Bayona. We made the most of the delay and our time in Falmouth by visiting local attractions and of course sampling the traditional pubs and restaurants that surround the harbour. We finally set sail from Port Pendennis Marina with our good friends Mike and Jennie on board early on Sunday morning (11^th June) after what proved to be the longest delay to the start in the Rally's history.

We slipped our lines and headed out into the English Channel for the start of our Biscay crossing. The larger, faster boats were expected to complete the 550nm crossing to northwest Spain by Wednesday night but we hoped to arrive some time on Thursday. Initially we were heading into the wind and an uncomfortable first day was anticipated. However, later in the passage, the wind veered behind us (though that was not necessarily a comfortable point of sail either!) We reached the shipping lanes by late afternoon and crossed into French waters at 17:30, heading for a passage inshore of the TSS off Ushant. By 03:00 the next day (Monday 12^th) we had cleared the TSS and set our course across Biscay to northwest Spain.

Our watch system was based around doubling up and sharing the watches equally. We therefore had 4-hour watches during the day (6 am to 6 pm) and 3-hour watches at night (6 pm to 6 am). As a result he time on watch rotated and everyone was allowed to rest for at east 6 hours each night. We quickly got into the routine and it worked very well.

Sunset in Biscay

Although the weather forecast was benign, we didn’t know what to expect over the course of the next 4 or 5 days, as the Bay of Biscay is well known for stormy weather and unanticipated weather changes. However, in the event, the forecast proved accurate and the swell caused more problems for us than the wind (due to the lack of it) with the boat constantly rolling from side to side, spilling what little wind we did find. So we spent a good deal of time motorsailing! We did get some good sailing weather in patches and we were kept on our toes changing sail settings and trying to make the best of the wind we encountered. During the passage dolphins and pilot whales were often with us, including one night when they stayed with us all the way through until daylight, whistling and dancing as we tried to catch some sleep.

As the days passed we saw less of the other rally boats and indeed very few other vessels. We were surprised very early on the morning of Wednesday 14^th to see an AIS signal for a huge 285 foot long sailing vessel. We diverted our course slightly to investigate and it turned out to be the Shabab Oman II, a 3-mast full-rig sailing ship in training service with the Royal Navy of Oman. Unfortunately she was also suffering from the lack of wind so her sails were furled but nevertheless she was an impressive sight!

Shabab Oman II

Just before daylight on Thursday 15^th we were approaching Cape Finisterre and we knew we would shortly be starting the final stretch. However, we first had to negotiate a mass of fishing boats and other vessels sailing around La Coruna and the Cape to start their day. Tired tired eyes strained to identify them and determine the courses they were taking. In addition, less and less boats seemed to have AIS as we headed south so we had to be extra vigilant. More than once we held out breath and hoped that the skippers knew (or more properly would act in accordance with) the International Collision Regulations. Thankfully, they did!

Lots of AIS Targets!!

 

The wind strengthened and the swell increased dramatically on the final day of our passage and we spent an excellent afternoon surfing the swell towards Bayona, with the impact only lessening when we entered the final bay where the Monte Real Yacht Club marina is located. We finally arrived 566 miles later, exhausted but exhilarated at around 16:30 on Thursday 15^th just as we had hoped. The whole fleet was eventually moored stern-to on one pontoon and the boats were dressed with signal flags en masse.

 

 

The following evening Friday the ARC Portugal fleet gathered at Monte Real Club De Yates where we enjoyed sangria and snacks on their terrace that overlooks the marina. As the sun started to set we walked into town to El Tunel restaurant where we had a typical Spanish dinner of local tapas, fish and meat. We all then then headed back to the marina for a pontoon party.

 On Saturday morning we had an all day tour of Santiago de Compostela. The fleet split into two groups and local guides Patricia and Maria guided us around the historic Cathederal de Santiago, Museums, and plazas. After the tour, we had the chance to roam around the streets and sample the delights of the many tapas bars.

Santiago de Compostela

On Sunday 18 June we enjoyed the sunny weather Baiona had to offer and had a free day to explore the town. In the evening the prize giving ceremony took place on the lawn in front of the Monte Real Club de Yates. After the prizes and tapas starters, we made their way into the dining room where a lovely meal of local fish or meat was waiting for us.

ARC Portugal Rally - And They're Off! (Sort of)

The Start line at Plymouth

Not quite the start to the ARC Portugal Rally that we had in mind but at least we left Plymouth as planned on Sunday 4 June. Unfortunately, due to the weather gods sending a series of low pressures zones further south than usual we were unable to set sail for Bayona in Spain, which was 1^st planned leg of the rally. Instead the fleet had a day-sail to Falmouth so that we would be a little further West and give the opportunity for the long-range forecast to develop further.

We had an 'interesting' sail. The rain started as we crossed the start line and steadily got worse becoming torrential over the next 3 hours. A stiff breeze on the nose and short choppy seas the whole way; just the sort of conditions that Snow Goose hates. With all our worldly goods now on board she is handling rather like a half-submerged hippopotamus and it took us over 12 hours to claw our way through the 35 mile course (and we motored for quite a while so that we would get there before dark). Because we were beating the whole way we travelled an extra half a dozen or so miles for good measure. I have to admit, it could have been a better first leg!

Fleetviewer

The fleet spread among local boats in Port Pendennis Marina

Well, we are still in Falmouth and we will be until at least next weekend. The lows continue to roll in to Biscay and the English Channel so we have SW gales and severe gales on the horizon for a while yet. Despite this we are in good spirits and the rally crews went for a fish and chip dinner last night, followed by an entertaining session of Breton dancing in a local pub. Naturally one or two individuals participated rather too eagerly but they have several days to recover before we leave.

Val and I went for a boat trip this morning (ironic or what!) to St Mawes at the other side of the river Fal from Falmouth. It’s a very picturesque, old-world fishing harbour overlooked by one of Henry VIII’s best-preserved coastal artillery fortresses.

St Mawes

St Mawes Castle

We are back on board now with the wind whistling through the rigging; our hippo rolling nicely as we start to plan our next few days in Falmouth.

Our Journey Begins!

We are gradually making our way along the south coast of the UK to Plymouth where we will be joining the ARC Portugal early next month. We set out from Ocean Village Marina in Southampton on 20 May as planned and had a short hop across to Yarmouth on the Isle of Wight to wait for the tidal gate at Hurst Castle to open the next morning. 
 

Val dodging traffic in the Solent

Portland on the horizon

 The next day (21^st) we sailed to Portland Marina in readiness to pass Portland Bill on the next favourable tide. 

Rounding the 'Bill'

At 7.30am on 22^nd we set off for what would be the smoothest passage we have ever had around the ‘Bill’ and had a cracking sail across Lyme Bay under full canvass over to Brixham; one of our favourite places on the south coast. 





 

Entering the River Dart

We decided to spend a couple of days there before moving onto Dartmouth; a very picturesque location at the mouth of the River Dart and another of our favourites.













 We decided to stay in Dartmouth for a few extra days . There are far worse places than this to pass the time!

Mooring at Darthaven Marina

Kingswear seen from Dartmouth

A Clean Bottom Again!

Ready for the lift!

 We had Snow Goose lifted today for a final scrub off and anode check in readiness for our trip south. As usual the prop and propshaft anodes had to be replaced but the others were fine. The Coppercoat was still in excellent condition on the hull after almost 5 years and the light coat of weed was quickly disposed of by the guys in Shamrock Key Marina.

Not in too bad condition!

All done and going back in!

She is now back on her berth in Ocean Village ready for the final bits and pieces to be stowed (assuming we can find any more space!!).

Moored up again

We will be spending the remainder of our time here saying goodbye to friends and family but more importantly we are going to my son's wedding next week! A  piece of excellent timing and forward planning.

Boys Toys!

This is the new Nav Station layout on Snow Goose. We have altered it significantly from the original specification.

For the technically minded, From right to left we have the 12 volt and 240 volt switch panels taking up the lions share of the space. The chartplotter above also displays and controls the autopilot, radar and AIS transponder. To the right of the swich panels is the secondary Garmin GPS with 240 Volt source selctor switch below. This panel is completed with a Raytheon Multi display (wind, speed, depth etc) and the generator control panel at the extreme right. A dedicated Navtex receiver is mounted underneath the plinth.

The side panel is dominated by the VHF and SSB radios, both with DSC. A pactor modem, connected to the SSB radio for email/internet access, is located in the louvred cupbaord on the right. Above the radios is the water tank gauge, nightlight, battery bank condition monitor, inverter/charger control panel and a reading light.

Unfortunately there was no room for the watermaker or heating control panels here so they have been mounted elsewhere. There is a secondary chartplotter in the cockpit, together with the primary autopilot control head and a Raymarine Multi display. The usual trio of Raymarine instruments (wind, speed and depth) together with windlass and bowthruster controls are mounted on the steering pedestal in the cockpit for easy access.

Final Preparations!

Snow Goose is our Island Packet 380. She was built in 2001 and we bought her from her first owner in 2012. We have refitted her extensively over the last 5 years in order to prepare her for our retirement cruise, which we are finally about to embark on. We have spent the last few weeks stowing all the equipment, spares and provisions we will need on our voyage and making sure that she is in perfect shape and ready to go.

We will be casting off for Plymouth in just over 3 weeks. We will then be joining the ARC Portugal with a couple of friends on board. The plan is then to move into the Mediterranean to do some warm weather cruising as the start of our retirement sailing adventure.